The Roaring '20's and The Waldorf

Our favourite Flapper and her Sugar Daddy





1929 ?!!

     29 years old – Seeing as this will be the final year in her 20’s, it seemed fitting to give my daughter a 1920’s themed birthday party.  I based my menu on the one served to President Calvin Coolidge in 1924 during his stay at the Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York.   A little backstory, the 13-story Waldorf Hotel was opened in 1893 by millionaire William Waldorf on the site of his mansion at 5^th and 33^rd.  Later in 1897 William’s competitive cousin, John Jacob Astor, (you may remember his name as one of those who perished on the Titanic), opened the 17-story Astoria Hotel in on a site adjacent to the Waldorf.  This is the same year the two hotels were conjoined by a corridor, becoming the Waldorf-Astoria.   By 1929, while still considered to be a luxury hotel, the Waldorf Astoria was becoming dated. 

     The hotel was replaced with what is now the Empire State Building and re-opened at its new site on Park Avenue in 1931.  The newly updated and now modern Waldorf Astoria was the tallest and largest hotel in the entire world, spanning an entire block on Park and Lexington Avenue.   Emulating the hotel’s menu prepared especially for President Coolidge would send the message I deem my daughter, her friends and the other members of our family in attendance to be just as important and worth honoring with a spectacular meal. 

     The evening began with cocktails and an appetizer, of course.  President Coolidge was served Anchovy Canapés.  I’m fairly certain I am one of only about 13 people who love anchovies.  So I prepared another classic stuffed mushrooms.  Filled with a mixture of their own stems, seasoned breadcrumbs, Asiago cheese, fresh garlic and parsley then brought together with a light pour of good olive oil.  20 minutes before serving, I drizzled melted unsalted butter over the top then popped them into the over.  Warm and delicious, no less than two were gobbled by each member of the crowd. 

     A few guests had moved onto wine, which complemented my Cream of Celery Soup nicely.  This is a very simple hot soup that is uncomplicated in taste and texture.  It begins with a mire poix, then a roux, a good broth and finally the chopped celery.  Allowing a half hour of simmering, the entire soup is allowed to cool then the solid bits of food are strained off and reserved.  I pureed the strained vegetables then added the desired amount to give the soup more body.  When I was ready to serve, I reheated the soup, poured in some heavy cream and seasoned to taste.  The dollop of crème fraiche and clippings of chives were my own touch. 

    Next up, the Waldorf Salad.  This was an important component of my menu, even though I don’t believe it was included in the President’s.  I just had to feature the Hotel’s namesake salad!  More backstory, this salad was created in 1896.  But not by one of the hotel chefs, rather by one of the maitre d’ hotel , Oscar Tschirky.  This guy, started out as a busboy, worked his way up to maitre d’ hotel at Delmonico’s Restaurant then moved onto the Waldorf.  Though he was never a chef himself, his association with high-end restaurants and chefs along with his knack for hosting large picnics on his farm in New York, demonstrated his love and appreciate of good food and good company.  Apparently, Oscar of the Waldorf, as he became known, helped to popularize Thousand Island dressing.   There are some stories giving him credit for creating Eggs Benedict, but these have been challenged.  Tschirky did publish a cookbook and I believe would be proud to know his farm once served as a retirement home for chefs then later opened to the public as the Culinarians’ Home. 

     While I have seen recipes for Waldorf Salad that includes grapes or raisins the original recipe consisted only of apples, celery and mayonnaise on a bed of lettuce.  The walnuts were added as a standard ingredient to the salad later.  Today’s expanse of salad creations and recipes is indeed diverse and imaginative, but as a cook and big consumer of salads, the straightforwardness of the Waldorf is much appreciated.   

     I allowed my daughter and her friends a break in the meal as her dad and Ian made an ice and alcohol run.  They returned just as my son and I were plating up the evening’s entrée and sides.  I’m not going to be modest the entree was one of my most incredible creations.  The Waldorf culinary staff prepared Chicken a la Rose for President Coolidge, but due to limited prep time I was unable to get my hands on culinary roses.  I did however locate culinary marigolds.  Adhering to the simplicity of the era, I seasoned the chicken thighs, (you could use breasts), with only salt and pepper, then browned them in butter and olive oil.  When those were done, I kept them warm in the oven while I prepared my Marigold & Almond sauce.  To serve, white rice was molded onto the plate at 4:00, fresh asparagus spears with a generous pour of Hollandaise sauce arranged at 7:00, a single thigh placed at 10:00, with a healthy pour of the Marigold sauce over the top, garnished with a marigold blossom.  Judging from the lack of leftovers, I’d say my 1924’s themed dinner was a resplendent success.  Happy Birthday sweetie!!

 

Here's the recipe

 

INGREDIENTS

 

2 ripe red apples, 2 ripe green apples ( your choice of Delicious, Gala, Gravenstein. Granny Smith or Pippin)

juice from 1/2 fresh lemon

2 cups diced celery

1 cup whole walnuts - toasted if desired, or not

1 cup good mayonnaise + 1/2 cup good sour cream

3-4 Tablsp honey

Boston or Butter lettuce leaves, whole but cleaned and dry

salt and pepper to taste

 

WHAT TO DO

1)  wash and dry apples, core then dice into bite-sized cubes-leave skins on

2) place diced apple into large mixing bowl, then squeeze fresh lemon juice over apple pieces

3)  Add diced cleaned, diced celery and toasted walnuts, broken into smaller pieces ( I just toast the walnuts on the stove in a small skillet - not butter or oil, over low heat)

4)  Mix in mayonnaise, sour cream and honey

5) season with salt and pepper to taste

6)  place lettuce leaves on individual plates, mound apple mixture onto each plate

You may garnish plate with addtional whole walnuts and as I did here, using a toothpick, top each salad with a thinly sliced round of apple!

 

                                                                            Makes 8-10 servings