I’ve been thinking a lot
about before and afters lately. I’ve realized the space between the two
can be as deep and wide as the Panama Canal, a 427 mile long, 55 mile wide,
man-made wonder of the world. Which by
the way seems to be on the Conde Nast Hot List, and why not? With cuisine reflective of the Spanish,
American and Afro-Caribbean influences, one has to only close their eyes and
imagine the delight of being presented with a robin’s egg blue plate, framing a
crispy fried corn tortilla topped with mildly spiced shredded beef. Should this plate be served to the vacationing
recipient on a warm and balmy morning, the only sounds heard would be the
lapping of ocean waves and the buzzing of humming bird wings, the dish would be
crowned with a perfectly soft boiled egg, mimicking the bright yellow, rising
sun. Of course lunch would likely be the
traditional sancocho. The Panamanian version of chicken soup,
almost a stew really. The chicken is
slow cooked in a simple broth, then stirred with a wooden spoon while adding
corn, rice, and exotic herbs such as culantro
along with a starchy root known as name,
(accent on the e).
Or the change between the
before and after can as imperceptible as the gait of a Galapagos tortoise. 250, (females), to 500 pounds, (males), of
ancient reptile, averaging 16 hours of rest and relaxation per day. Periodically they open their eyes and meander
around in search of munchies, such as cactus, grasses and fruits. Though I would never, ever consider using these treasured Testudines, they do bring to
mind another favored first course . . . turtle soup. Specifically my go-to recipe the rich and somewhat
spicy version offered in New Orleans. It
starts with a well-balanced, dark roux then the holy trinity and fresh
herbs. This soup is also slow-cooked,
(at a snail’s pace – oh! another delectable creature living within a protective
shell), about a pound and a half of diced turtle meat, a splash of sherry, and
there you have it. Don’t wrinkle your
nose until you’ve tried it my friend, the flavor can only be described as soft
and salivating, with just a little
kick in between.
But back to my fixation on
before and afters. Whether the transition is as demonstrative as
rising bread dough or the slow progression used when curing bresaola, the results are
consistent. What we end up with
afterward is very different from what was before. Before I was kind of chubby. After
my diet I was thinner. Before I was married. After
my divorce I wasn’t. Before, when I was younger I thought I knew
everything. After I turned fifty-something, I realized I didn’t really know anything.
This brings to mind the ongoing shift from before and after for my
students at the youth center. I don’t
know anything about their lives before they came to the center, except there
was a wide variety of epicurean knowledge when I arrived. Now after
six years of
monthly group gatherings, I know the students that have passed through here can
better feed themselves and those they care to share with.
This past week our lesson was
focused on fresh produce as it comes to our kitchen from the market. Providing my group with a balance of some common
and a few less familiar greens we embarked upon the task of making salads. We discussed how it is still only lettuce, until we use
it to make a salad. My students excitedly
inhaled the grassy scent of Kale, Romaine, Chinese snow peas and a rainbow of
bell peppers. They julienned, sliced and
small diced fresh carrots, scallions, English cucumbers and strawberries. They minced fresh garlic and blended
seasonings to doctor up bottled dressings.
And finally, these most creative of culinarians, set about filling their
plates, cups or bowls with their vision of a compound or composed
salad. One young man assembled an eye-pleasing
deconstructed salad without even realizing
it. But after seeing what he did,
everyone learned the details of deconstructed salads, (and desserts).
With only a brief
demonstration and a few dollars’ worth of produce my amazing students engaged in
a lesson that integrated food with art.
Before we started our group that morning, most were only familiar with
iceberg lettuce and huge bowls of compound salads. After our one hour lesson, every one of them
had created a feast for the eyes and nutrition for the body. I don’t know where these young adults go
after they leave our communal kitchen, but I am so proud of them! Here are the afters of the lesson:
Where before there were only empty paper plates, bowls and cups, after . . . .
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